Have you ever had that moment when the toilet starts to overflow? You quickly reach underneath to turn off the valve. Surprise! It has failed and the handle won’t turn. Follow along with Plumber John as he replaces a failed Angle Stop Valve in this episode of “Tales From The Jobsite”

Angle Stop Valve Failure. Reasons To Replace An Angle Stop Valve

Stop Valves or Isolation valves are essential so we can turn off the domestic water supply to a plumbing fixture like a faucet or toilet. These are the small valves under our sinks and toilets that we can use to turn off each fixture. A valve commonly fails when it sits for years without use. The valve starts to corrode and small deposits build up. Eventually, the valve will fail.

Handle Freeze

The stem is what actually freezes. The handle is attached to the stem. What we notice is that the handle does not turn. When the internal working mechanism of the valve corrodes often times it freezes and will no longer turn.

Stem Leak

Often times an old valve will leak from the stem after someone uses it. It usually won’t leak if the valve is fully open or fully closed. Only when it is partially open. This is a stem leak failure.

Prep To Replace An Angle Stop Valve

It is essential that there is enough pipe sticking out of the wall to have enough room to connect a new valve. When this is not the case the job is much more difficult because I need to get inside the wall to make the repair. Angle stop valves are available in all types of configurations but the most common are 5/8″ compression, 1/2″ PEX Crimp, 1/2″CC (copper connection) solder, CPVC Solvent Weld, and threaded connection. I choose the appropriate valve to match the type of piping I am working with.

Water Shut Down and Valve Removal

I recommend you have a licensed master plumber do the work. Only a qualified, licensed professional should make alterations to a rough water distribution system. To shut down the water system I first turn off the breaker to the electric water heater. This is a safety precaution. If the electric water heater drains down while it is on the elements will burn up. This home was on a private well so I was able to shut off the water with the main valve at the well expansion tank. I then must relieve the pressure from the water system and drain it. The existing failed valve is connected to a copper stub-out. I clean the copper and cut off the valve with a tube cutter.

Replace the Angle Stop Valve

In this installation, I am installing a 5/8″ compression angle stop on an existing 1/2″ copper stub out. The existing valve had not only leaked but the mechanism had failed. I could turn and turn the handle but it would never shut. I supply the toilet with a PEX supply tube that I cut to the appropriate length and seal with a 3/8″ nylon ferrule and brass compression nut at the valve outlet. Toilet supply tubes have the proper size and type of connection on the top for a toilet. A faucet supply tube has a different size fitting on top that fits the connection to a faucet. I make a proper watertight seal in the compression joint with a ferrule installed in the correct orientation.

I Turn on the Water and Check for Leaks

I always check for leaks when the work is done. My flashlight is one of my most important tools. It allows me to find minor drips so I can repair them. I check for leaks multiple times. It is a good practice to check the work once again an hour or two later.

If you need an Angle Stop Valve replaced or installed please call 919-795-8727.  

The Information in this blog post is in no way an instruction manual. Many of the procedures described require a licensed plumber to perform.

Related Post: “pressure-reducing-valve-prv-repair”, “Washing Machine Hook Up Repair”

Check out Plumber John’s Favorite
“Tales From The Jobsite Plumbing Blog” posts.

Hose Faucet Repair
Broken Toilet Flange Repair
Thermal Expansion Tank Repair